How do Japan's youth interpret western culture? Find out at Amerika-Mura (America Village), a hyper-trendy shopping enclave where a distinctly Japanese spin is put on the best (and more often the worst) of western fashion and paraded outrageously. At the weekend it has all the mayhem, colour and noise of London's Camden or New York's East Village. Sit outside a cafe, grab a coffee and watch the serious business of Osakan teens trying to out-groove one another. Triangle Park is the catwalk at the centre of all the fuss, where the hordes meet to shop for the newest looks and eat the latest in-food. It's great fun; allow plenty of time to take the area in. Amerika-Mura is two blocks west of Mido-Suji and bounded on the north by Suomachi-Dori (Europe-Dori) and the south by the Dotombori Canal.

Osaka really comes to life at night and nowhere is this more visible than in Dotombori, the area around Dotombori Canal and Dotombori Arcade, where there is so much neon, noise, bells, whistles and greetings all strobing away, it feels like you're inside a pinball machine. Walk out to the Ebisubashi Bridge and take in the glittering sci-fi nightscape reminiscent of Blade Runner. Only a short walk south of Dotombori Arcade is Hozenji, a tiny temple hidden down a narrow alley. Its best feature is the moss-covered Fudo-myoo statue, a favourite among locals who douse it with water to ensure a lucky evening. Nearby is the aromatic and traditional Hozenji-Yokocho, another tiny, atmospheric alley of restaurants and bars. Farther south towards Nankai Namba station is a maze of arcades buzzing with cafes, pachinko parlours, strip clubs and cinemas, while north of Dotombori, between Mido-Suji and Sakai-Suji, are the hostess bars, discos and clubs for later in the night. Towards the western end of Dotombori Canal and just to the south is the National Bunraku Theatre (puppet theatre), which was popularised in Osaka and where the traditional art form still captivates. If you can catch a performance while in Osaka it is an amazing experience.

If the city's hectic pace is wearing you out, Osaka-jo Castle may be just the antidote. Set in pleasantly green surrounds, the castle is immensely popular with locals and tourists alike, and often packed with noisy uniformed school children eager to test their English greetings on any willing visitor. Unfortunately it is merely a 1931 concrete reconstruction of the original, which was completed in 1583 as a display of power by Toyotomi Hideyoshi after he achieved his goal of unifying Japan. It is impressive, however, and the heritage museum inside is worth a look. The Ote-mon (gate) is the main entrance, a 10-minute walk northeast from Tanimachi 4-chome station which is on both the Chuo and Tanimachi subway lines.

On Sunday, there is a quirky (if not highly talented) live-music scene along the road leading from Osakajo-koen station (on the JR Osaka Loop line) to Osaka-jo Hall and the back entrance to the castle. Loud bands play to adoring teenagers and bemused elders strolling by. Less than 1km (.6mi) northwest of the castle park is another green oasis, Nakanoshima, on an island sandwiched between the Dojimagawa and Tosaborigawa rivers. It also houses the City Hall and Museum of Oriental Ceramics. The eastern end is Nakanoshima-koen Park, a great spot for a walk or a picnic.

Osaka has made a speciality of creating land where previously there was none. Faced with a severe real-estate problem, Osaka turned to its natural harbour and has been popping out artificial islands ever since. First came the futuristic Kansai international airport in the southwest of the city. Now three more islands have created a 'Bay Area'. On Sakashima Island is a new centre of commerce comprising the Asian Trade Centre (ATC), the World Trade Centre (WTC) Cosmotower with the highest observation point in western Japan, and the International Exhibiton Centre (INTEX). To entertain the visiting business folk there is the incredible-looking Osaka Maritime Museum, in a see-through dome on the water. Slightly more tranquil is the Nanko Bird Sanctuary on the western edge of the island. Sakashima Island is on the Chuo subway line (green).

On the mainland side of Sakashima Island is the Tempozan Harbour Village, also accessed by the Chuo subway line. It has a busy marketplace, loads of shops and great seafood restaurants. The Osaka Aquarium is the main attraction of the area and one of Osaka's best - it has the largest aquarium tank in the world, with two frighteningly large whale sharks. A walkway winds up around a central tank through eight levels, representing different levels of the ocean. A new addition to the area is the Tempozan Giant Ferris Wheel, which offers a fine panorama of Osaka if you're not afraid of heights. Bay cruises and boat trips to Universal Studios Japan can be taken from here.

Universal Studios is Osaka's (and Japan's) latest theme park in a country mad about them. The park features the latest in thrills, frights and ooooaaahs with Back to the Future, Jurassic Park, Backdraft, ET and Jaws rides. There are also the obligatory wacky stunt shows and more merchandise than you can swipe a credit card at. The Universal Studios train station is 10 minutes from Osaka station on the JR Yumesaki (Sakurajima) line.